“Bespoke” is a term derived in the 18th century when a cloth was considered to “be spoken for”, when it was selected by a customer at a Savile Row tailoring establishment. At that time any suit which was made after the customer selected the cloth was called a “bespoke” suit. However, today more than one process of tailoring is offered. What was “truly bespoke” in essence is one of the offerings, besides made-to-measure and ready to wear, and some adaptations of all these types of tailoring.
Bespoke tailoring is the high end suit making technique. It involves the maximum human touch and provides the highest level of individual customization.
The essence of the “bespoke” suit is in the process that is followed to make it by the Savile Row tailors or other good tailors in Europe and around the world. The process involves a detailed measurement of the individual and then a pattern which is specially made for each customer. Then a first fitting takes place which is genuinely a raw assembling of the various parts of the suit. At this stage, often the raw seams are opened and reattached with pins during the fitting, so as to “drape” the suit jacket properly on the individual. Then a second fitting is done, incorporating the changes made in the first and only then the suit would be finished. Minor alterations would also be done once the suit is finished, in case needed.
Another aspect of True Bespoke is the construction of the suit from inside that is custom bespoke suits. The traditional way of making the suit is by hand stitching a horse hair canvas to the front of the suit jacket. A new, cheaper, faster way is to fuse (essentially glue) the jacket fabric with a fusible polyester lining. This quicker method is a compromise because it changes the natural property of the fabric and doesn’t allow the suit to mould into the person’s shape.
Most tailors are offering a short cut version of this process and calling it “bespoke”. They have ready patterns of sizes 38, 40, 42, 44 and so on and make minor changes to somewhat fit you. The first fitting itself is almost a fully finished suit, with only the collar in a raw state, more for show, and no major changes are done at this stage. Naturally, a suit that is made this way can never be the same fit as a “True Bespoke” suit. This version is called made-to-measure and is different from “bespoke”.
Many bespoke tailors today have started calling their service “Bespoke”, but this is far from true. When you come to us, rest assured that you get traditional, true bespoke tailoring with the latest styles that exude the class that you deserve.